See what I did with that title there? Double Meanings FTW!
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I like organic, locally-sourced food. I like growing my own food. I like cooking food and, by golly, I like eating food. So, I’ve been trying to figure out exactly what’s been rubbing me the wrong way about a friend of mine linking to The Clean Eating Mama on her Facebook. I happened to mention the site in my last post, forgetting the joys of pingbacks, so now I feel obliged to explain why, as Tasha, the mama in question, left a very nice comment in said post!
Anyway.
I like all of those things I mentioned. As a middle-class suburban mother, I generally have the time and resources to do all those things. I was raised first in West Africa (growing our own food and local-sourcing, ahoy) and then moved to So Cal, where my parents had very little money and cooked everything we ate. Until I was ten or eleven, visiting a friend’s house, I didn’t know that spaghetti sauce even CAME in jars, because my mother always made hers from scratch. I think I can count on the fingers of one hand the number of times I’ve made cake from a mix instead of from a recipe.
The problem is not that the blog in question embraces those things or encourages them, because I can really, really get behind all of that. I love a lot of the content and suggestions on Tasha’s blog. The problem, I think, is that the philosophy of “clean eating” really, really fails to consider the realities of urban existence which, for many people, makes it exceptionally difficult to source locally and to eat fresh fruit and vegetables, because in “food deserts” those options simply don’t exist.
For someone like me, who definitely does not live in a food desert (although this would be less the case if I were not mobile and didn’t own a car), it still isn’t an easy philosophy. My family (my parents, husband, son and I) buys a $50 organic vegetable box per week. Now, while it’s good value for money, $50 for many people is the better part of their food budget for a month, never mind a single week of produce. Not all of that produce is locally-sourced (they do exchanges with other food co-ops for foods in season there but not here and vice versa) but it’s a reasonable facsimile thereof. If I were not able to purchase this box, I could steer toward local produce in the grocery store, perhaps, but generally the best you can do there is to chose US-grown produce, since labels do not make it readily apparent where in the US produce comes from.
Once you know where your food comes from…do you have the money to purchase it? I can buy strawberries (omg, one of the most pesticide-covered foods!) at 2 for $5 for non-organic containers. If I wander over to the organic section of my local grocery store and pick up a container that is the same size or smaller, I will almost certainly pay twice as much, even if strawberries are in season.
How important is that strawberry to me? If I’m trying to feed my child a varied, healthy diet (and I use “diet” in the sense of “things wot we do eat” not “CALORIE RESTRICTION!!!” here) and make sure that he’s exposed to lots of yummy foods, what if I can’t pay $5 for the organic strawberries? To be honest, I don’t pay $5 (or more) for the organic ones. Last summer I made the serious mistake of thinking the local farmers’ market would be cheaper. It wasn’t. A pint of organic strawberries there cost at least $5 and possibly more. My husband and I have a reasonable income. I choose to work because, financially, it’s my only real option. I cannot afford to buy organic for everything I eat.
Let’s not forget that, frequently, organic foods in grocery stores are transported further than non-organic equivalents. In the UK, I could buy non-organic British corn but the only organic corn was transported from France.
What bothers me most, though, is the implication that, if “clean eating” means everything organic and homemade, then what I’m doing is “dirty living.” I don’t like the implication that, if you eat organic, homemade food and get 3-5 exercise periods in per week, you will lose weight. I do not like the implication that weight = good health, or that my goal should be giving up all man-made foods to achieve good health and weight loss. It drives me a little nuts when people (and I don’t mean people = Clean Eating Mama especially) talk about “toxins” and ridding ourselves of things we “can’t pronounce.” “Dihydrogen monoxide” sounds awfully nasty until you realize it’s just water. There are plenty of vitamins that have long chemical names, come from entirely innocuous sources, but sound weird.
Tocopherol? Vitamin E. Ascorbic Acid? Vitamin C. Pantothenic Acid? Vitamin B5.
And, if you take an organic chemistry class, you can pronounce “dibencozide” (Vitamin B12) or “p-aminobenzoic acid” (B10) just fine (and know what they mean, at least mostly). Whether or not they’re good for you or bad for you is another question. Whether or not a specific synthesized chemical is good, bad, or just indifferent for you is the topic of ongoing research and isn’t defined solely by its chemical name.
I agree that minimally-processed foods are probably more nutrient-rich than processed foods. I agree that there are ethical implications to eating locally-sourced produce and free-range organic eggs. I do not think that calling the choice to eat those over other products “clean eating” is fair, even if the goals themselves are good. I think it builds food paranoia and, for some people, contributes to disordered eating (ask me how many times I’ve felt guilty for buying my son non-organic peppers at 2 for $4 rather than paying $3 or more for a bell pepper – is it better to give him a vegetable that he’s guaranteed to eat and will devour whole, like normal people eat apples, or not buy them at all and hope that he’ll go for broccoli today instead*)?
The way I eat is not “dirty” eating. Eating is not dirty, especially when you are eating in a way that fuels your body at a price you can afford. The idea of taboo foods is one that needs to be broken down on all levels, because instead of celebrating that my son loves a bell pepper, or a watermelon, or a piece of broccoli, I find myself feeling guilty that I didn’t spend twice as much for the organic (frequently imported) variety. When other parents are worried that their child subsists only on Cheerios and air, I’m feeling bad that my son is devouring non-organic granola and organic-but-homogenized-pasteurized whole milk.
Because of my history of disordered eating, guilt around food is a powerful force in my life that I constantly fight. I think that encouraging people to eat lots of different foods, to explore seasonal eating (Simply in Season is one of our favorite cookbooks, by the way), and to encourage communities to work with people so that EVERYONE in our society has the option to do those things is incredibly important. I do not, however, think that there should be any perceived dirtiness or failure associated with not doing them. I do not need to feel like I’m building up so-called toxins in my gut because I ate tomatoes out of a possibly-BPA-containing can, because that way lies madness, food restriction, and body hatred.
Eating is eating. I make ethical and personal choices based on my personal circumstances, but it is not my job to label someone else’s eating habits or imply that they are wrong. So long as my family is fed within my means, and I have done my best to feed them the best quality food I can afford, I am doing well as a mother.
Note: I am not trying to say that Tasha intends any of the associations that I made here or that they are not entirely products of my own relationship with food – this is, however, frequently the reaction I have to the Michael Pollan-esque “whole food” movement, because it can lose its connection to individual circumstances and forget how much privilege the (often white and middle-class) people espousing it have to make those food choices and pursue such an exclusive diet. Please do not attack Tasha or her blog! Comments should be kept here.
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*He likes broccoli too, by the way. I have yet to meet a vegetable my child will not eat. Not many fruits, either, although he’s always been pickier about those.